Easier Homemade Bar Clamps
The \"homemade bar clam\" in my first instructable got amazing feedback and I was stunned by this reaction and I thought I would do it again.
I also like to make structure!
One thing mentioned is the workload and cost involved, both of which are fair comments.
Personally, I like to make tools so I am willing to use my time to do it and the material cost is not high when you end up getting a quality tool (
Of course, less labor costs).
So I made a simpler and cheaper clip that turned out to be great.
Welding is not required.
I\'m trying to do most of the work with basic tools, Hacksaw, files, etc instead of a grinder (
I like this anyway. less noise).
I did use my drill, table and band saw, but these tasks can be done with hand drills, hand saws, puzzles, etc.
I think most people who need Bar clips will have at least some woodworking power tools, though.
Although these clips are not as heavy as steel clips, they still have enough clamping pressure for any glue and will still last for many years.
There are three main parts of the fixture (
Four if you count the bar)
, There is a \"foot\" to slide along the bar and place the lock nut to grab the bar --
\"Fixed Head\" and \"movable head \".
That\'s why I\'m going to name these parts in this structure.
The bar can do any length you want.
Since I made my original clip, I realized one thing --
The threaded rod does not need to take the entire length of the main Rod.
The thread bar at the end of the main bar is not required for the head, which makes the build easier.
After cutting the rods and rebar, I stuck them together with a good quality building adhesive.
I looked at the center and then got the idea of weight and then let it dry overnight.
I made the sides with plywood, which gave me a lot of strength.
I used a thickness of 17mm thick, but it is OK from any size above 12mm.
The center part up and down the bar needs to be 26mm thick, so I cut these off the building on the table.
I cut plywood and pine parts with table and drip saw and use the size I planned.
I used the 1: 1 template to stick the upper center part of the foot to the pine tree, and then cut it off on the band saw that is a bit far off the line and polish it to the line.
This is safer and more accurate than cutting on the drip saw.
This part needs to be correct in order for the fixture to work.
If cropped with band, I have included templates for all parts of 1: 1 in my plan
Saws or puzzles and sanding are an easier choice.
When the fixture is under pressure, the lock nut locks the foot on the rod.
The electric tool does not need to cut the m8 nut in half and the Hacksaw can work quickly.
I then fixed it to the lower center of the foot with a small amount of 5 minutes of epoxy.
I use a few screw bars to press the nut down when drying.
Also, the rod helps to line up and center the nut, which I do through my eyes --
How accurate and surprising this is.
The rod I use is the clamping screw we need later (200mm length).
Feet need to be put together fairly accurately.
The size of the foot should be checked to ensure that the foot slides along the bar while removing the lock nut, leaving a gap of the correct size.
Stick your feet together with glue and nails
Also, to get more power, I put two wooden screws on each side of my foot.
The bottom of the foot is most of the direction of the clamping pressure.
I used 40mm wood screws and when they went to half of the foot they had to be slightly offset from one side to the other.
The fixed head and movable head are assembled around a bar with glue and nails.
In addition to the DingTalk, I also clamp the fixing head to narrow the gap as much as possible
The rest of the bar is 26mm and the bar is 25mm.
Later, this is stuck with epoxy
The clip is closer to the gap than the individual DingTalk.
Don\'t make the same mistake as me.
I have already emphasized the place where nails are not put.
Because they will interfere with drilling into the head later.
A groove is drilled in the movable head so that a nut is turned at the end of the clamping screw.
The groove needs to be wide enough to hold a m8 washer and deep enough for the washer and nut to turn freely.
The gasket I used was 35mm, so I drilled a 38mm hole with a forstner bit and 15mm was the depth I went.
After drilling, I drilled a hole for the clamping screwI used a 12. 5mm bit.
I then clamp the movable head onto the fixed head and drill a short way to the fixed head through the movable head to mark where the hole needs to be.
Then remove the clip and drill holes on the rest of the road.
Next, I put an m8 nut on a screw bar and put it through the fixing head and mark it around the nut with a pencil.
Then I cut out the marking area of the nut.
After cutting the stock with a length of 25mm square, I cut 100mm for each handle.
Then I marked the center and drilled about 60mm with 10. 5mm drill bit.
Then tap the hole with a m8.
Alternatively, the hole can be drilled wide enough to accept the screw bar and then inserted, but I used to find that it still slides.
In order to make the handle more comfortable to use, one o\'clock and sanding are required.
Then I stick the handle to the clamping screw with epoxy (
Thread bar 200mm long).
In the grooves we cut out, it is necessary to stick together with epoxy resin.
For the Assembly, the clamping screws need to be screwed through the fixing head, and then the nuts and washers need to be put on the rod before passing through the movable head.
Then a gasket needs to be added to sit in the groove of the movable head.
The epoxy is then added to the end of the bar, carefully put on enough glue to stick the nut in place without covering the rest of the threads.
The NUT between the two heads is then glued to the proper position, tightening the nut to the movable head enough to make the clamping screw turn without being too hasty.
It\'s an easy task to stick the rod to a fixed head.
I used quite a bit of epoxy.
I had planned to put a bolt in the head and in the bar, but I realized it was not necessary.
If you want the head to be removable and used on a longer rod, you can skip the epoxy and just bolt the head in place.
I built a barrier around the semi-locking nut with masking tape so I could build epoxy around it to add some strength.
It\'s not necessary, but if we take the time to do the clips, we \'d better try to do their surface treatment well.
I cut the clip pad off the 7mm floor, but you can use almost anything.
The cushion on the head is 65mm wide and 70mm high, the feet need to be 5mm short and 65mm x 65mm high.
The pads on the feet need to be glued in place, so the bottom of the mat leaves a 5mm gap above the main bar.
The mat on the activity head can be placed on the bar.
Clamp the pads in place using the clip.
The end cap is designed to prevent the head from sliding from the rod.
They are made by cutting a piece of pine that measures slightly larger than the interior of the main Rod, screwing the lid and then hammering to the position.
At this point, I finished the wood with flax seed oil and thought I had finished it.
Then, when giving them a solution, the lock nut starts to fail
It does not attach well to the bottom of the foot.
When the nut is welded in place and nowhere to go, my steel clip does not have this problem.
My theory here is that most of the force on the nut is vertical and push it into the rod
But I find that the body of the foot slides slowly enough (very slowly)
Move back from the lock nut.
I think the epoxy will be strong enough.
I even used a higher strength instead of a 5 minute epoxy and left it overnight.
Maybe I didn\'t leave it long enough, but I still think it will fail.
Before I made my original bar clip, I made a prototype and I stuck half the nut in the proper position, which actually worked very well.
I don\'t think this is a good long-term solution, though.
So, after some thought, I added a small plate to my feet under the bar.
This prevents the nut from sliding out of place
It\'s like a hook that grabs the nut.
It is disappointing that this additional step is necessary, but it took only a few minutes to complete (
30 mmat for a short paragraph).
Now it works fine.
Only a small amount of horizontal force, but the NUT should still be reinforced with epoxy (
As in the previous steps)
Metal plate (
I stick it with epoxy and screw it on my feet).
Plate should be installed before hammer end cap-
I installed it with my feet, but it would be easier to install it beforehand.
In addition, metal plates may be replaced with a piece of plywood --
I haven\'t tried it, but I\'m sure it will work well if it\'s an easier option.
The finished clip is great.
Easier/faster build and cheaper than my original steel clip.
What I save most on cost is m8 clamping screws
The steel fixture uses the M16 screw bar as the fixture screw, which makes the price a little higher (
M8 rebar is much cheaper than M16).
However, these clips can be easily adapted to the use of M16 clip screws, which I believe will increase the life of the clips.
But as long as it is not abused for giving more pressure than needed, the m8 clamping screw will still last --
These threads may eventually be stripped for careless operation.
Glue should not require a lot of pressure.
The steel clamps must be a bit heavy, but these clips use the same stick and are still a very strong and powerful clip with the same ease of use.
They will last for many years.
A rough Price Guide (
Australian prices)
I believe these prices will be much cheaper in many parts of the world --
Everything here is expensive.
The price of steel comes from steel merchants rather than hardware stores.
I often buy steel, so I always buy it like this. much cheaper. 25mm SHS (Main Bar)$20 for 6.
5 mm12 rebar $9 for 3.
Plywood and Pine (6 m (
Scrap or small amount per piece)
$5 construction adhesive $5 cost depends on how many clips you make-
The longer the steel and rods you buy, the lower the overall cost.
According to the above price, you can make six 80 cm capacity clips with the following products :-1 x 25mm SHS (Main Bar)$20 for 6. 5m2 x M12 3.
6 m threaded rod $7 18.
Construction Adhesives $5 $58-2 m nuts and washers $10 epoxy $5 Construction Adhesives $5
I also like to make structure!
One thing mentioned is the workload and cost involved, both of which are fair comments.
Personally, I like to make tools so I am willing to use my time to do it and the material cost is not high when you end up getting a quality tool (
Of course, less labor costs).
So I made a simpler and cheaper clip that turned out to be great.
Welding is not required.
I\'m trying to do most of the work with basic tools, Hacksaw, files, etc instead of a grinder (
I like this anyway. less noise).
I did use my drill, table and band saw, but these tasks can be done with hand drills, hand saws, puzzles, etc.
I think most people who need Bar clips will have at least some woodworking power tools, though.
Although these clips are not as heavy as steel clips, they still have enough clamping pressure for any glue and will still last for many years.
There are three main parts of the fixture (
Four if you count the bar)
, There is a \"foot\" to slide along the bar and place the lock nut to grab the bar --
\"Fixed Head\" and \"movable head \".
That\'s why I\'m going to name these parts in this structure.
The bar can do any length you want.
Since I made my original clip, I realized one thing --
The threaded rod does not need to take the entire length of the main Rod.
The thread bar at the end of the main bar is not required for the head, which makes the build easier.
After cutting the rods and rebar, I stuck them together with a good quality building adhesive.
I looked at the center and then got the idea of weight and then let it dry overnight.
I made the sides with plywood, which gave me a lot of strength.
I used a thickness of 17mm thick, but it is OK from any size above 12mm.
The center part up and down the bar needs to be 26mm thick, so I cut these off the building on the table.
I cut plywood and pine parts with table and drip saw and use the size I planned.
I used the 1: 1 template to stick the upper center part of the foot to the pine tree, and then cut it off on the band saw that is a bit far off the line and polish it to the line.
This is safer and more accurate than cutting on the drip saw.
This part needs to be correct in order for the fixture to work.
If cropped with band, I have included templates for all parts of 1: 1 in my plan
Saws or puzzles and sanding are an easier choice.
When the fixture is under pressure, the lock nut locks the foot on the rod.
The electric tool does not need to cut the m8 nut in half and the Hacksaw can work quickly.
I then fixed it to the lower center of the foot with a small amount of 5 minutes of epoxy.
I use a few screw bars to press the nut down when drying.
Also, the rod helps to line up and center the nut, which I do through my eyes --
How accurate and surprising this is.
The rod I use is the clamping screw we need later (200mm length).
Feet need to be put together fairly accurately.
The size of the foot should be checked to ensure that the foot slides along the bar while removing the lock nut, leaving a gap of the correct size.
Stick your feet together with glue and nails
Also, to get more power, I put two wooden screws on each side of my foot.
The bottom of the foot is most of the direction of the clamping pressure.
I used 40mm wood screws and when they went to half of the foot they had to be slightly offset from one side to the other.
The fixed head and movable head are assembled around a bar with glue and nails.
In addition to the DingTalk, I also clamp the fixing head to narrow the gap as much as possible
The rest of the bar is 26mm and the bar is 25mm.
Later, this is stuck with epoxy
The clip is closer to the gap than the individual DingTalk.
Don\'t make the same mistake as me.
I have already emphasized the place where nails are not put.
Because they will interfere with drilling into the head later.
A groove is drilled in the movable head so that a nut is turned at the end of the clamping screw.
The groove needs to be wide enough to hold a m8 washer and deep enough for the washer and nut to turn freely.
The gasket I used was 35mm, so I drilled a 38mm hole with a forstner bit and 15mm was the depth I went.
After drilling, I drilled a hole for the clamping screwI used a 12. 5mm bit.
I then clamp the movable head onto the fixed head and drill a short way to the fixed head through the movable head to mark where the hole needs to be.
Then remove the clip and drill holes on the rest of the road.
Next, I put an m8 nut on a screw bar and put it through the fixing head and mark it around the nut with a pencil.
Then I cut out the marking area of the nut.
After cutting the stock with a length of 25mm square, I cut 100mm for each handle.
Then I marked the center and drilled about 60mm with 10. 5mm drill bit.
Then tap the hole with a m8.
Alternatively, the hole can be drilled wide enough to accept the screw bar and then inserted, but I used to find that it still slides.
In order to make the handle more comfortable to use, one o\'clock and sanding are required.
Then I stick the handle to the clamping screw with epoxy (
Thread bar 200mm long).
In the grooves we cut out, it is necessary to stick together with epoxy resin.
For the Assembly, the clamping screws need to be screwed through the fixing head, and then the nuts and washers need to be put on the rod before passing through the movable head.
Then a gasket needs to be added to sit in the groove of the movable head.
The epoxy is then added to the end of the bar, carefully put on enough glue to stick the nut in place without covering the rest of the threads.
The NUT between the two heads is then glued to the proper position, tightening the nut to the movable head enough to make the clamping screw turn without being too hasty.
It\'s an easy task to stick the rod to a fixed head.
I used quite a bit of epoxy.
I had planned to put a bolt in the head and in the bar, but I realized it was not necessary.
If you want the head to be removable and used on a longer rod, you can skip the epoxy and just bolt the head in place.
I built a barrier around the semi-locking nut with masking tape so I could build epoxy around it to add some strength.
It\'s not necessary, but if we take the time to do the clips, we \'d better try to do their surface treatment well.
I cut the clip pad off the 7mm floor, but you can use almost anything.
The cushion on the head is 65mm wide and 70mm high, the feet need to be 5mm short and 65mm x 65mm high.
The pads on the feet need to be glued in place, so the bottom of the mat leaves a 5mm gap above the main bar.
The mat on the activity head can be placed on the bar.
Clamp the pads in place using the clip.
The end cap is designed to prevent the head from sliding from the rod.
They are made by cutting a piece of pine that measures slightly larger than the interior of the main Rod, screwing the lid and then hammering to the position.
At this point, I finished the wood with flax seed oil and thought I had finished it.
Then, when giving them a solution, the lock nut starts to fail
It does not attach well to the bottom of the foot.
When the nut is welded in place and nowhere to go, my steel clip does not have this problem.
My theory here is that most of the force on the nut is vertical and push it into the rod
But I find that the body of the foot slides slowly enough (very slowly)
Move back from the lock nut.
I think the epoxy will be strong enough.
I even used a higher strength instead of a 5 minute epoxy and left it overnight.
Maybe I didn\'t leave it long enough, but I still think it will fail.
Before I made my original bar clip, I made a prototype and I stuck half the nut in the proper position, which actually worked very well.
I don\'t think this is a good long-term solution, though.
So, after some thought, I added a small plate to my feet under the bar.
This prevents the nut from sliding out of place
It\'s like a hook that grabs the nut.
It is disappointing that this additional step is necessary, but it took only a few minutes to complete (
30 mmat for a short paragraph).
Now it works fine.
Only a small amount of horizontal force, but the NUT should still be reinforced with epoxy (
As in the previous steps)
Metal plate (
I stick it with epoxy and screw it on my feet).
Plate should be installed before hammer end cap-
I installed it with my feet, but it would be easier to install it beforehand.
In addition, metal plates may be replaced with a piece of plywood --
I haven\'t tried it, but I\'m sure it will work well if it\'s an easier option.
The finished clip is great.
Easier/faster build and cheaper than my original steel clip.
What I save most on cost is m8 clamping screws
The steel fixture uses the M16 screw bar as the fixture screw, which makes the price a little higher (
M8 rebar is much cheaper than M16).
However, these clips can be easily adapted to the use of M16 clip screws, which I believe will increase the life of the clips.
But as long as it is not abused for giving more pressure than needed, the m8 clamping screw will still last --
These threads may eventually be stripped for careless operation.
Glue should not require a lot of pressure.
The steel clamps must be a bit heavy, but these clips use the same stick and are still a very strong and powerful clip with the same ease of use.
They will last for many years.
A rough Price Guide (
Australian prices)
I believe these prices will be much cheaper in many parts of the world --
Everything here is expensive.
The price of steel comes from steel merchants rather than hardware stores.
I often buy steel, so I always buy it like this. much cheaper. 25mm SHS (Main Bar)$20 for 6.
5 mm12 rebar $9 for 3.
Plywood and Pine (6 m (
Scrap or small amount per piece)
$5 construction adhesive $5 cost depends on how many clips you make-
The longer the steel and rods you buy, the lower the overall cost.
According to the above price, you can make six 80 cm capacity clips with the following products :-1 x 25mm SHS (Main Bar)$20 for 6. 5m2 x M12 3.
6 m threaded rod $7 18.
Construction Adhesives $5 $58-2 m nuts and washers $10 epoxy $5 Construction Adhesives $5
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